Post by Smiley on Mar 7, 2008 5:10:33 GMT -5
With permission smileysbirds.proboards26.com/index.cgi
YELLOW-FRONTED PARAKEET
(C. auriceps)
RED-FRONTED PARAKEET
(C. novaezelandiae)
These are the subs we have here in Australia.
Kakariki are native to New Zealand. They spend as much time on the ground as they do in the trees. They have long feet and toes and love to scratch about on the ground like chickens. Their feathers are elongated and fluffy to help protect them from the cold.
There down is concentrated near the skin and the tips are dense when compared with other species. Elongated feathers can be erected to trap heat near the body, unfortunately these adaptations can work against them in captivity. Kakariki can overheat easily. And tend to die in a hot environment.
Kakariki are grass parrots, they will spend hours hunting for seeds and treats under the mulch. All you need is a deep bowl or untreated pine wooden box. In which you can hid treats in EG: meals worms. They do not have to use their beaks to climb as do other parrots and will walk vertically up and down the wire. They are very entertaining in an aviary.
"Kakariki" – is a Maori name meaning "laughing parrot" and "little parrot" both claimed as direct translations.
Red-fronted Males 27 - 30 cm
Females 24 - 27 cm
Yellow-fronted males 24 - 27 cm
Females 21 - 24 cm
Sexing
Kakariki are dimorphic so there's no need for DNA or surgical sexing as long as you know what to look for. It's pretty obvious. Males are about 15 grams heavier than females and also have bigger heads and wider beaks. The females look very thin and dainty. Chicks can be sexed by the width of their beaks when their pinfeathers are just beginning to open.
Diet
Kakariki are omnivorous, that is, they eat both meat and vegetable foods. They are very easy to feed; they eat just about anything. A varied diet should be offered, Lovebird mix, Cockatiel or Small Parrot seed mixes, fruit, vegetables, and small amounts of chicken, mealworms and other meats. Kakariki pose no problems in feeding as long as there is plenty of it and a good variety. Since they scratch at their food, the dish needs high sides.
Mutations
Cinnamon, fallow, pied, Black eyed clear yellow, and lutino.
Breeding
The first thing make certain of is that your birds are not hybrids. Red-fronts only have red and it's found on the crown, back past the eye, as a sort of stripe leading to eye and as a spot behind the eye. Yellow-crowns do not have the stripe or the spot near the eye, but have a small patch of red just above the cere and a yellow patch extending past over the eye. Hybrids can look like yellow-crowns with a more orange colour and sometimes a partial spot or stripe.
Their breeding habits are very unpredictable as they either breed well or not at all. Their first clutch is usually small with two to three chicks. As they mature the clutch sizes increase to five to six, but nine to ten have been known. Incubation, only by the female.
They will breed in logs or wooden nest boxes 10"x10"x14" being the smallest. Nest material untreated pine shavings. Keeping away from very fine dust particles.
Incubation period is from 18-21 days
The nest boxes should be placed in the coolest part of the aviary. Young leave the nest about 5 to 6 weeks the cock is left to feed the clutch. By the time the young have fledged, the hen may have started to lay another clutch in another nest box. This is why you should put more then one box in for them. It is not uncommon for the fledglings to break legs jumping out of the nest before they can fly. This can be avoided by placing the nest box close to the ground. Which you will find better any ways, nest boxes should not be put right at the top of the aviary, as Kakariki are susceptible to the heat. Even better if you can place their aviary under a shady tree. They are known to make good fosters.
Problems
Kakariki may be susceptible to aspergillosis infections. Worms for they are ground feeders.
Seizures have been known.
Heat stress.
Escape artist.
Pets
Very animated, playful and chatty, and very hyper. Very entertaining pets if you can handle a bird that will get into everything. They require plenty of space; a large cage is a must. They are not noisy or destructive. Most of all they love to bathe. They are not afraid of new things, so you will have to keep on eye out. For they can get into a lot of trouble. Not really known for any great talking ability’s.
I have come to one conclusion about Kakariki, you don't own them, they own you.
YELLOW-FRONTED PARAKEET
(C. auriceps)
RED-FRONTED PARAKEET
(C. novaezelandiae)
These are the subs we have here in Australia.
Kakariki are native to New Zealand. They spend as much time on the ground as they do in the trees. They have long feet and toes and love to scratch about on the ground like chickens. Their feathers are elongated and fluffy to help protect them from the cold.
There down is concentrated near the skin and the tips are dense when compared with other species. Elongated feathers can be erected to trap heat near the body, unfortunately these adaptations can work against them in captivity. Kakariki can overheat easily. And tend to die in a hot environment.
Kakariki are grass parrots, they will spend hours hunting for seeds and treats under the mulch. All you need is a deep bowl or untreated pine wooden box. In which you can hid treats in EG: meals worms. They do not have to use their beaks to climb as do other parrots and will walk vertically up and down the wire. They are very entertaining in an aviary.
"Kakariki" – is a Maori name meaning "laughing parrot" and "little parrot" both claimed as direct translations.
Red-fronted Males 27 - 30 cm
Females 24 - 27 cm
Yellow-fronted males 24 - 27 cm
Females 21 - 24 cm
Sexing
Kakariki are dimorphic so there's no need for DNA or surgical sexing as long as you know what to look for. It's pretty obvious. Males are about 15 grams heavier than females and also have bigger heads and wider beaks. The females look very thin and dainty. Chicks can be sexed by the width of their beaks when their pinfeathers are just beginning to open.
Diet
Kakariki are omnivorous, that is, they eat both meat and vegetable foods. They are very easy to feed; they eat just about anything. A varied diet should be offered, Lovebird mix, Cockatiel or Small Parrot seed mixes, fruit, vegetables, and small amounts of chicken, mealworms and other meats. Kakariki pose no problems in feeding as long as there is plenty of it and a good variety. Since they scratch at their food, the dish needs high sides.
Mutations
Cinnamon, fallow, pied, Black eyed clear yellow, and lutino.
Breeding
The first thing make certain of is that your birds are not hybrids. Red-fronts only have red and it's found on the crown, back past the eye, as a sort of stripe leading to eye and as a spot behind the eye. Yellow-crowns do not have the stripe or the spot near the eye, but have a small patch of red just above the cere and a yellow patch extending past over the eye. Hybrids can look like yellow-crowns with a more orange colour and sometimes a partial spot or stripe.
Their breeding habits are very unpredictable as they either breed well or not at all. Their first clutch is usually small with two to three chicks. As they mature the clutch sizes increase to five to six, but nine to ten have been known. Incubation, only by the female.
They will breed in logs or wooden nest boxes 10"x10"x14" being the smallest. Nest material untreated pine shavings. Keeping away from very fine dust particles.
Incubation period is from 18-21 days
The nest boxes should be placed in the coolest part of the aviary. Young leave the nest about 5 to 6 weeks the cock is left to feed the clutch. By the time the young have fledged, the hen may have started to lay another clutch in another nest box. This is why you should put more then one box in for them. It is not uncommon for the fledglings to break legs jumping out of the nest before they can fly. This can be avoided by placing the nest box close to the ground. Which you will find better any ways, nest boxes should not be put right at the top of the aviary, as Kakariki are susceptible to the heat. Even better if you can place their aviary under a shady tree. They are known to make good fosters.
Problems
Kakariki may be susceptible to aspergillosis infections. Worms for they are ground feeders.
Seizures have been known.
Heat stress.
Escape artist.
Pets
Very animated, playful and chatty, and very hyper. Very entertaining pets if you can handle a bird that will get into everything. They require plenty of space; a large cage is a must. They are not noisy or destructive. Most of all they love to bathe. They are not afraid of new things, so you will have to keep on eye out. For they can get into a lot of trouble. Not really known for any great talking ability’s.
I have come to one conclusion about Kakariki, you don't own them, they own you.
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